Aja Sofija i Plava džamija, Hagia Sophia and Blue Mosque

Crkva Aja Sofija (Crkva svete mudrosti), sagrađena je između 532. godine i 537. godine po naređenju vizantijskog cara Justinijana u tadašnjem Konstantinopolju (Istanbul).Smatra se ovaploćenjem vizantijske arhitekture.



Hagia Sophia (Holy Wisdom) church was built between 532 and 537 A.D. in Constantinople (Istanbul) on the orders of the Byzantine Emperor Justinian. It is considered and epitome of byzantine architecture.

 




Skoro hiljadu godina bila je najveće katedrala u svetu.
Almost one thousand years it was the largest cathedral in the world.
 


Kada su Turci osvojili Konstantinopolj Sultan Mehmed II (Osvajač) naredio je da se crkva preobrati u džamiju. Uklonjena su zvona, oltar, 15 m visok srebrni ikonostas a mozaici su prekriveni malterom I iscrtani muralima u duhu Islama. Tokom godina izgradjena su 4 minareta i postavljen je Mihrab (niša u zidu džamije).
When Ottoman Turks conquered Constantinople, Sultan Mehmed II (Conqueror) ordered the building to be converted into a mosque. The bells, altar, 15 m high silver iconostasis were removed, and many of the mosaics were plastered over and painted with murals of Islamic art. Over the course of the following years 4 minarets were added and Mihrab (niche in the wall of the mosque) was placed.
Mihrab ukazuje na Kiblah (pravac u kom vernici treba da obavljaju molitvu) a to je pravac u kom se nalazi Meka (najsvetije mesto u Islamskoj religiji). Tokom narednih 500 godina služila je kao uzor za izgradnju džamija u otomanskom carstvu. Preko puta Aja Sofije u periodu od 1609. godine do 1616.godine izgrađena je grandiozna Sultan Ahmetova Velika plava džamija.

Mihrab indicates Kiblah - the direction of the Mecca (the most sacred place in Islam religion) and hence the direction that Muslims should face when praying. For almost 500 years church served as a model for many of the Ottoman mosques. Opposite Hagia Sophia during the period 1609 and 1616 the grand Sultan Ahmed I Mosque (Blue Mosque of Istanbul) was built.

1935. godine nakon dolaska na vlast Kemala Ataturka doneta je odluka da se Aja Sofija pretvori u muzej.

In 1935 when Kemal Ataturk came to power, Hagia Sophia was converted into museum.

Danas se u muzeju mogu videti neki od otkrivenih mozaika I elementi islamske umetnosti.

Today some of discovered mosaics can be seen in the museum together with elements of Islamic art.






Sultan Ahmetova Plava džamija ima šest minareta i po kaskadnoj arhitekturi liči na Aja Sofiju.

Sultan Ahmed’s Blue mosque with its six minarets and great cascades of domes looks nearly like Hagia Sophia.


Sultan Ahmet I je želeo da napravi mesto za muslimansku molitvu koje će biti lepše čak i od božanstvene Aja Sofije.
The founder Sultan Ahmet I wished to build an Islamic place of worship that would be even more beautiful than magnificent Hagia Sophia.

Dobila je naziv Plava džamija po plavim pločicama kojim je ukrašen enterijer džamije. U njoj se i danas obavljaju molitve ali je dozvoljen i pristup turistima.  

It got a name Blue mosque because of the blue tiles that are decorating walls of the interior. Today it is still place for pray but tourists are allowed to visit too.
Može biti zatvorena od podneva petkom jer je petak sveti dan u Islamu. Ulaz je besplatan .

It may be closed from Friday noon for a Friday is a holy day in Islam. Entrance is free of charge.

Iza Plave džamije nalazi se splet starih kaldrmisanih ulica koje sećaju na prošle vekove.

Behind Blue mosque there is a net of old cobble streets which call to mind foregone centuries.







U njima je smešten mali hostel (20 US dolara noćenje sa doručkom) uređen u autentičnom stilu Turske iz prethodnih vekova.

A small hostel (20 US dollars BB) decorated in authentic Turkish style from previous centuries is situated there.



Na krovu zgrade napravljena je mansarda na kojoj se pije čaj I kafa sa pogledom na Plavu džamiju.

On the roof there is a terrace where you can enjoy tea or coffee with the view to the Blue mosque.




Sa druge strane mansarde ujutru se služi doručak. Od ranog jutra mirišu domaća peciva, upravo umešena, tek napravljeno domaće kiselo mleko, masline I raznovrsne orijentalne đakonije. Davno zaboravljeni ukus prave domaće hrane, pogled na zaliv I brodove nad kojima se igraju galebovi biće neočekivano iskustvo .

At the other side of the terrace in the morning breakfast is served. Since early morning fresh home - made pastry and sour milk smells nice, along with olives and various oriental delicious food. Long forgotten taste of home - made food, view to the bay and ships above which sea-galls are playing will be unexpected experience.

Sve je tiho, mirno I veličanstveno kao I sama magija hedonističkog orijenta.

Everything is quiet, still and magnificent just like a magic of hedonistic orient itself.

                                                      happygiraffetravel@gmail.com

Batu pećine, Batu Caves

Na periferiji Kuala Lumpura nalaze se Batu pećine, jedno od najvažnijih mesta hodočašća hinduista izvan Indije.
Batu Caves on the outskirts of Kuala Lumpur is a leading Hindu shrine outside India.

Od 1890.god tu se svake godine u desetom mesecu hinduističkog kalendara (najčešće krajem januara ili) početkom februara odvija živopisna hinduistička svečanost Thaipusam. Preko milion ljudi u velikoj gužvi poseti ovo mesto tokom tri dana trajanja praznika. Batu pećine čine tri velike i nekoliko malih pećina. Gua Kecil, jedna od tri glavne pećine ima krov visine 100 m, te se u nju tokom praznika tiska veliki broj obožavaoca.

Since 1890s, it is the scene of the colorful Hindu festival of Thaipusam. The festival is held in the tenth month of the Hindu calendar (mostly the end of January) or the beginning of February. Over one million people throng Batu Caves over three days of festivities. It is made of three main caves and several smaller ones. Of the three caves Gua Kecil has a roof that is 100 m high and attracts large numbers of worshippers and visitors during Thaipusam.

Do nje se dolazi penjanjem uz 272 stepenice. Uspon je veoma težak a svaki stepenik uzan. Potrebno je više puta se odmarati a zbog velike vrućine obavezno treba imati i flašu vode sa sobom. Poželjno bi bilo i sačekati trenutak kada je bar jedan deo širokog stepeništa u hladu kako bi se mogli sakriti od prejakog sunca koje strašno prži.
It is accessible via 272-step staircase. Climbing is very dificult and each stair is narrow. It is necessary to take a break several times and to have a bottle of water with you because of unbearable heat. It would be also good to wait until one part of wide stairs falls into shade so that you can hide from strong sun that enourmously burns your skin.



Neki posvećenici nose „kavadi“ („teret“ u vidu krčaga ili bokala) veliku maštovito ukrašenu žičanu konstrukciju čijim šiljatim krajevima buše svoju kožu a neki buše obraze i jezike oštrim napravama koje liče na žicu. Thaipusam je vreme kada se izvodi čin ispaštanja i nošenja „ tereta“ u cilju ispunjenja zaveta datih božanstvu Gospodaru Muruga (Bog rata zaTamile). Nosioci kavadia očekuju da će im molbe biti uslišene. Žene na glavama nose srebrne krčage pune mleka. Neki posvećenici kukama kače na svoje telo limune, pomorandže i kokose.
Some devotees carry the “kavadi”, large creatively decorated wire frame whose ends pierce the skin and may have their cheeks and tongue pierced by sharp wire-like instruments. Thaipusam is a time for carrying out acts of penance and carrying the burden, in fulfillment of vows made to the deity, Lord Muruga (God of War in areas whit Tamils). By doing this penance they expect some favours from their Gods. Women carry a silver jugs full of milk on their heads. Others hook limes, oranges or coconuts onto their bodies.


Procesija počinje u hramu Sri Mariamman u Kuala Lumpuru noć pred Thaipusam festival i traje oko 8 časova hoda do Batu pećina
The procession starts on the evening before the Thaipusam festival at the Sri Mariamman Temple in the town centre of Kuala Lumpur and lasts for about 8 hours of walk till the caves.



Na dolasku dočekaće vas mnoštvo majmuna. Oni se nadaju da će od vas dobiti malo kikirikija ili bananu.
At your arrival you will be greeted by lots of monkeys. They are going for your peanuts and bananas.


Poslednji nivo pećina na kom se i nalazi hram nema svod već pogled u otvoreno nebo zaokružen stenama. Na vrhovima se nadvijaju zelene krošnje pa u malo dvorište konstantno lagano padaju mali listovi presijavajući se usput na sunčevim zracima.
The top level of caves where the temple is placed has no ceiling but view to the open sky circled by rocks. Over the tops green tree tops lean and small leaves shining in the sun beams are falling down into the small patio.


Do Batu pećina može se stići iz centra Kuala Lumpura gradskim autobusom ili taksijem (13km).
Batu Caves can be reached from Kuala Lumpur by local bus or taxi (13 km).

Čak i kad nije vreme praznika u pećini se može zateći po neki vernik koji vrši obred obraćanja bogovima. Na video snimku koji sledi vidi se čovek koji se moli bogu da prihvati dušu njegove preminule majke.
Even than, when there is no a festival you can see believers who performe ritual of addressing to gods. The following video clip shows a man who prays to God to accept a soul of his departed mother.